In the mountains of Chile
14 de Agosto del 2006
Muy Buen Dia a todos
The drive from Pachica to Enquelga would take about 3 hours so spending the prior night at Kusayapu and making it the starting point for the day seemed appropriate. It was 6:30 and a breakfast of two fried eggs and fresh pan awakened us for the journey.
Minute by minute the landscape changed and the temperature dropped. We were traveling from an altitude of 1500 meters to over 4000, in this winter month. You could see in the distance stoic mountains covered in white ice and snow There were trees that are only found in this area, grasses unique in this world and created to feed llama and alpaca, the red bloom algae that feeds small fish below a water surface…much was happening under the surface of this land, as was spiraling above it.
The cassette tape playing in the car was one of Christian music…Majesty was the name of the song. No modern buildings to be seen, no overhead freeway signs, no supermarkets or malls, no distractions. Majesty.
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The volcano Isluga was filled with steam and found openings of relief, some which were many miles below…gysers. The pueblo Mauque appeared deserted as we approached, but the small church enticed us to stop, stretch our legs and have a look. The temperature at this altitude had fluxuated, in and out of the morning sun, from 8 to –4 degrees Centigrade. As we left the car we noticed two small heads bobbing toward us from the pueblo. As they came near their leaping walk-run brought big, bright smiles. “Hola, hola, hola!” Ha! They were Elizabeth (6) and her brother Alfredo (3). “Hola, hola” they continued. We exchanged greetings and kisses and walked toward the small church. The children were adorned with layers of clothing and Elizabeth with a warm knitted cap.
As I stood on the threshold of the church, I saw at my feet two shiny, gold keys on a very small ring. They were the keys to open the padlock to this small temple. Opening the door, with Elizabeth by my side, I stopped, knowing I should be given permission first. An elderly gentleman, approaching from the same place the two children came, made his way through the clump grasses to the tiny chapel. His walk was a struggle, signs of a possible stroke which affected one side of his body.
“Con permiso?” I asked, “passé” he stated. The cold hit me before I saw the darkness. As the old wooden doors moved in, the sunlight showed evidence of last years 18 de Septiembre festival, as patriotic streamers still hung from the ceiling. The altar was handmade of earthen materials, the paintings by local andean residents. On leaving the church Elizabeth once again grabbed my attention asking if I had something for her. We walked over to the car and I looked at my travel companions in what I am sure looked like desparation. There was no candy in the car, in my purse, in my briefcase…nowhere to be had. Only a couple of oranges Ann had brought along, quickly to be tucked inside Alfredo and Elizabeth´s pockets. Elizabeth persisted. Rummaging through my purse I noticed my half empty bottle of Coca-Light sitting in the cup holder of the car. Perfect, I thought. Elizabeth stared at the bottle as she tucked it under her arm. “No”, I said, “you need to open it.”. She glanced down the neck of the plastic bottle as the cap was removed. Such an odd look on her face, as if “what is this brown substance?” We realized it was the first time she or her brother had seen a Coca Cola. She immediately stuck the bottle up to the mouth of her brother, sisters do that sometimes. He seemed to enjoy it, so Elizabeth gave it a try. She nodded in approval and I replaced the cap. A new experience out in the middle of Majesty. I explained I would be sure and bring candy the next trip. And there will be a next trip.
As we gave Elizabeth and Alfredo hugs goodbye, I noticed their tiny hands…they could have been the hands of their grandfather…dry and cracked mostly from the conditions of their living. It is hard to imagine their life in this place, certainly lived day to day. The elements are harsh…we picked a perfect day to visit, one filled with sunshine and low wind…but the howl of the harsh wind will most certainly come, the molestoso of blowing rain, the unrelenting cold, the sleet and snow…they will all come, again and again.
We made our way to Enquelga and the first person we encountered on the street was the president of the neighborhood committee…the exact person we were looking to speak with. He gave his greeting and quickly apologized and explained that first he must participate in the local elementary schools Singing Festival which featured children from the pueblos of Enquelga, Colchane, Cariquima and more. An invitation was extended to us, an invitation we dared not turn down. Three hours later, and suffering from a tad of the “puna” or altitude sickness, we were invited to share with the Mayor of Colchane and other visiting dignitaries in a coctail and lunch. The mayor spoke of the pride of the andean people of this area and how they would never allow extranjero mining firms into this precious land….never. The mines have done their damage to Chile over the years and this alcade was not ready to see the same happen to his hogar. Strong statements about the future of the andean people.
The meeting finally came with some hopeful results. We said our goodbyes once again and told them of our gratitude for their hospitality and warmth. Travel continued to Colchane where we spoke to the local nurse of our upcoming eye-glass program in October. She was grateful that so many elderly in this area of the altiplano would be given the gift of sight. Lives would be changed and affected through the contacts Ann has made in the States and in their giving.
As we chatted I mentioned to the nurse that all three of us were suffering from a little “puna” and asked if she could help. Within minutes I was lying on an examination table, oxygen mask covering my face, and a nice woolen blanket to bring quick warmth. Sitting at my feet drinking an herbal tea to abate their own headaches were Ann and Paulo, warming up at a different pace.
Driving back to Pachica and hearing Majesty once again on the radio, I turned to our chauffer and asked “Have you accepted Jesus Christ?”, he answered “yes, about 30 years ago.” My response was, “I thought so, but we have never had an opportunity to talk about it.” We arrived safely to Pachica and Ann and I continued on to the coast and Iquique.
I keep thinking of Elizabeth and Alfredo and their grandfather, living in such remoteness and in conditions we would never voluntarily seek to live in. But, this is their life…it is what they know. They may not have chosen it, but have adjusted to their environment. Where are we…what have we not chosen, but are living? What are our choices, what are the choices of Elizabeth and Alfredo and their family? And I keep coming back to Majesty.
Bendiciones grandes,
Becky Harrell W.
Volunteer Coordinator-EMANA
Corporacion Metodista-Chile
Majesty, worship His Majesty,
Unto Jesus, be all glory, honor and praise!
Majesty, kingdom authority, flows from His throne,
Unto His own, His anthem raise.
So exalt, lift up on high the name of Jesus.
Magnify, come glorify Christ Jesus the King,
Majesty, worship His Majesty,
Jesus who died, now glorified,
King of all Kings.
©1987, Songs and 1981, Rocksmith Music
Words and Music by Jack Hayford
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